After a day’s rest from not cycling at Strasbourg, we felt a little fresh and energetic to take on one of the longest routes – 105 KM from Strasbourg to Durlach, Karlsruhe. We had an early breakfast and set out early knowing that it's going to take a long time. Alsace is like visiting two countries at once. Fortunately, for everyone's sake, you won't see locals wearing berets with lederhosen--instead, you can expect some of the most picturesque scenery in all of Europe. The city of Strasbourg, with its cobblestone streets, half-timbered homes, and Gothic architecture glows with such ancient perfection it almost looks movie-set fake. Equally as impressive, but on a smaller scale, is the city of Colmar. More Old World than New, it's the perfect stomping ground for testing the region's most championed wines--Riesling and Gewurztraminer--while also inquiring about the area's fascination with storks, seemingly symbolized on every building. The Vosges Mountains, France's last great pristine wilderness, also add to Alsace's wow status. Staggering views of glacier-cleaved valleys ornamented with Medieval castles are the norm rather than the exception.
Its transnational position on the borders of France and Germany has made Strasbourg an attractive location for many important European government and legal institutions. Located in the high-tech buildings of the European Quarter (Quartier Européen), at the intersection of the Marne–Rhine canal and the river Ill, north-east of the city centre, they include the Medicines Directorate, Court of Human Rights and Agora office building (north of the canal), the Council of Europe and European Ombudsman (south of the canal) and the European Parliament (in the fork between the canal and the Ill). The location in Strasbourg of the latter has caused considerable controversy, as there are also Parliament buildings in Brussels and Luxembourg, causing parliamentary members, officers and staff to live peripatetic lives between these three cities.
The initial path riding through the city of Strassbourg was nice and beautiful with excellent directions and signposts for EuroVelo 15. Then we cycled through the woods for about 30 minutes. We reached Gambershiem quite quickly but were unable to see the Fish Ladder in Gambershiem. We asked around some of the locals and either we could not understand them or vice-versa. So we gave it a miss. Then we cycled along and reached another village called Greffern, Rheinmunster. It is a small marina village and we had a wonderful lunch overlooking the Marina. The German beers are all so nice. The ride along the Marina was a long one and in picturesque locations, we let out our drone to take aerial pictures. Most of the time we were cycling through the canal. Thereafter we headed towards Munchhausen and along the way, we intended to divert to Rastatt but the diversion to Rastatt was too far (in terms of bicycle ride) and we gave it a miss to see the Presidential Palace at Rastatt. We kept on cycling and for the first time, the journey looked very long.
Munchhausen occupies a tranquil location overlooking the river Sauer, a backwater that, before 19th-century navigational improvements, was the main course of the Rhine. Traditional punts, once used for fishing but now mainly for harvesting reeds, line the banks, and water fowl are numerous.
After Munchhausen, we cycled towards Lauterburg and then continued along the riverbank for 1km and onto the flood dyke. Crossed French-German border at a small bridge over Alte Lauter river then asphalt track to Neuburg ferry.
Lauterbourg , the easternmost town in mainland France, is a French border town surrounded on three sides by German territory. Attractions include the parish church above the square, attractive townhouses, ruined fortifications and gatehouses.
Crossed the Rhine by ferry and headed to Daxlanden and to Karhshue. We did not like the city cycling. However, I need to admit that cycling paths were very well defined and wide in the city. We noted a lot of local people were using bicycles to work – I recall seeing this in China in the early eighties. Passing through Karlshrue, we headed towards Durlach to our Airbnb destination. We arrived at about 8 pm and the host was quite unwelcoming. After cleaning and changing ourselves, we headed towards a local restaurant. Again the beers were fantastic.
Founded in 1715 by Margrave Karl Wilhelm II, Karlsruhe (pop 296,000) is a relatively modern city. At its center is Schloss Karlsruhe palace from which 32 streets radiate, giving the city its nickname Fachterstadt (fan city). It is said that Karlsruhe’s layout provided inspiration for Washington DC. Marktplatz, south of the palace, is the commercial center, with the Rathaus and evangelical church. In the middle of Marktplatz is a pyramid, the city’s emblem, covering Karl Wilhelm’s tomb. Karlsruhe is home to Germany’s two highest courts, the Federal Constitutional Court and the Court of Appeals. Germany’s largest oil refinery can be found beside the Rhine, west of the city.